VF-1 vs HG-10

[Jeffrey Herman]

Below are the replies I received regarding my question about the
Heath VFOs; most replies came from rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors.
73, Jeff KH6OO
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>How does the VF-1 VFO compare to its younger brother, the HG-10
>(or vice-versa) 73, Jeff KH6OO


The HG10 is much improved over the VF1 as it should be for a newer model.
However I didn't care for the plastic gearing, and roller bandswitching dial
which was hard to keep tight. One easy improvement. The VR tube which adds
stability does help. However the VR tube dropping resistor is mounted under
the chassis near the main tuning cap, so the heat it develops heats the cap
causing some drift. Simply move the 5 watt resistor above the chassis.
Drilling more ventilation holes in the top case also helps let out the tube
heat to further reduce thermal drift. Of course if you want the antique
value then you must live with the drift...no mods.


Believe the HG-10 included a gas regulator for the B+ to
improve stability.The VF-1 was the earliest model, sported a grey
cabinet. The HG-10 had the now familar Heathkit Green finish that
complimented the DX-60 and HR-10 combo. The HG-10 (if my memory holds!)
included six and two meters.


In my experience the VF-1 drifts a  good bit more than the HG-10


In 1966, I used a Heath VF-1 and homebrew power supply with a
DX-60A.  The VF-1's Frequency stability was marginal. Drift
was a problem, as well as mechanical instability.


Marginal is putting it mildly.  I finally had to abandon my VF-1 around 1966
because the pink (OO) slips were scaring me.  But now I've got another one and
it's not quite so jumpy after a fair amount of work.  I also built it an
electronically regulated PS instead of using the aux socket on the DX-35.


I worked a fellow recently who said he tamed his VF-1 by using a very low
value of plate voltage. I haven't used the HG-10, so sorry I can't make
the comparison. Oh yeah--mechanical stuff was a problem.  The wiring from
the 11 meter switch position was causing instability even when (obviously)
the switch wasn't in the 11 M position.  So I took it out.

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