Need "long screws" for Johnson Cabinet

[Mark]

Super feedback Stu - as well as great help from five other list members -
what a helpful group.

73
Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "w7fe" <w7fe at COX.NET>
To: <BOATANCHORS at LISTSERV.TEMPE.GOV>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 1:47 AM
Subject: Re: Need "long screws" for Johnson Cabinet


> Before responding to your question on the tie bolts, A WORD OF CAUTION
> regarding the EFJ Pacemaker:
> ********************************************
>
> Most of us are quite careful around the parts under and on top of the
> typical Boatanchor chassis, but we don't expect to find anything lethal on
> the sides of the chassis. This unit is the exception.
>
> Put a some electrical tape or a piece of plastic tubing over the 6CL6
> neutralizing capacitor shaft and its nut. It's mounted on the right hand
> side of the chassis (looking from the rear) with the shaft extending out
> about 1/2".  The shaft (and the bushing and nut) is insulated from the
> chassis and has 320V on it, so at best it can really get your attention if
> your finger brushes across it and the chassis at the same time while
you're
> doing an alignment or whatever.  At worst (like if you have your other
hand
> touching the chassis), it can kill you.  Really.
>
> ******************************************
> Now, to answer your question:
>
> Finding some original long tie bolts for EFJ cabinets is roughly
equivalent
> to finding a mint Ranger II in the original box at the Goodwill store.
>
> Solution:  Contact Cal Eustaquio, N6KYR/8 in Lansing, Michigan,  email
> catman351 at yahoo.com. He makes replacement long tie bolts for the Ranger
and
> Valiant/Pacemaker using 1/4" all-thread with a nice slotted screwhead and
> collar assembled to one end.  The ones for the Pacemaker (and all the
other
> "big" EFJ boxes like the Valiant, J-500, T-Bolt, Invader) are about  2"
> longer than those for the Ranger.
>
> However, being all-thread, Cal's bolts are a bit larger diameter than the
> EFJ originals which were unthreaded except at the last inch or so.
> Therefore, on the Pacemaker,  the right side bolt may interfere with a
> couple of the coil slug adjusting screws that stick out the side of the
> crystal oscillator deck.  I think that perhaps the originals, with their
> slightly smaller shaft diameter, would have just cleared the slug
adjusting
> screws even if they were adjusted quite a ways out of the form.
>
> There are (at least) three options than come to mind to deal with this
> problem:
>
> 1. Change the fixed capacitors such that the coil adjusting screws don't
> have to be extended so far to tune properly and therefore don't hit the
long
> tie bolt (certainly the most elegant option, but only for the most anal of
> us restoration freaks).
> 2. Don't bother with installing the right hand long tie bolt --mount a
> similar headed short screw in the cabinet hole so it looks "finished", or
> leave it out altogether. Not elegant, but minimum effort.  The other three
> long tie bolts do a pretty good job of keeping the cabinet attached to the
> front panel.
> 3. Find some original tie bolts, or at least one for the right side
position
> (a good solution, but see opening wisecrack above).
>
>
> 73 de Stu  W7FE
> Phoenix
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mark" <mroldradios at OPTONLINE.NET>
> To: <BOATANCHORS at LISTSERV.TEMPE.GOV>
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:56 PM
> Subject: Need "long screws" for Johnson Cabinet
>
>
> >I jsut got a Pacemaker and would like to find some of the long screws
that
> >hold the back tightly against the front panel - the screws are like a
foot
> >long and may be the same ones as used on the Ranger.   Anyone have a
> >source?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mark N1MG
> >
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