Need "long screws" for Johnson Cabinet

[w7fe]

I used this method with my first Ranger a few years ago. It gets the job 
done, but one needs to take care not to apply the "plumber's rule" when 
tightening the nuts (you know, "get it as tight as you can, then go another 
turn).  There is more mechanical advantage to the nut/wrench combination 
than to the screwdriver, and the lower mechanical feedback doesn't give away 
how much force you are applying.

I'm embarrassed to admit that in my zeal to get that baby "tightened up 
good", I managed to go too far, producing an unfortunately irreversible 
result.  Perhaps the all-thread contacted the front side of the u-shaped 
threaded bracket, and continued tightening put a high bending force on the 
front panel.  Whatever the scenario, that Ranger now has a cute little 
vertical outward crease on the left side of the front panel. It's most 
visible when viewing from the side, but it reminds me of my transgression 
every time I look at it closely.

I think I saw Dee refer to this result, possibly referred to as the 
"Infamous Ranger Bulge", a while back when he was outlining his requirements 
for non-acceptance of panels for restoration. I took some comfort in 
learning that I might not have been the only ham-handed (pun intended) guy 
to have done the deed.

73 de Stu W7FE

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Harry Vaught, KT4AE" <kt4ae at BELLSOUTH.NET>
To: <BOATANCHORS at LISTSERV.TEMPE.GOV>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: Need "long screws" for Johnson Cabinet


> Rather than pay the price for the replacement screws for my Ranger, I got 
> some threaded brass rod from Home Depot and used cap nuts and finishing 
> washers.  It isn't original, but it looks good and doesn't cost much.
>
> Harry, KT4AE
> Maryville, Tennessee
>
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