paint prep
W. Sushak
stanway at DBLHELIX.COM
Mon Apr 26 00:03:26 EDT 1999
Hello...
Have been watching this discussion with interest. Have redone/rebuilt many
electronic and mechanical pieces (from cars on down). If you are going to
have paint removed via blasting, consult commercial outfits for information
if not the work. Sand and glass are graded as to size and weight. Type of
finish desired for any given material is determined and then appropriate
materials/pressure/volume applied (weight and hardness of individual
particles of sand are different, even though mostly silica... glass beads
are manufactured an so a greater consistancy across the board). I have had
many aluminum pieces blasted, and have had the finishes I wanted because I
told the blasting outfit what I wanted. An example of this is (e.g.
"fine") glass beading on aluminum chassis' will produce a finish as smooth
as a baby's rear end. When I had my boat outdrives glass beaded prior to
rebuilding, I had them use a coarser glass material because I wanted enough
bonding area (the rougher the surface, the more surface area) for the zinc
chromate primer (probably still the best bonding general purpose primer for
any aluminum, but illegal in many areas now... difficult to get on a
consumer level except at marine supply stores). Painting is a system, not
a single step... someone else on this reflector said that proper prep work
was at least 90% of not only a good looking job, but a lasting one!
...wayne
--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --
To subscribe: listserv at listserv.tempe.gov
and in body: subscribe HEATH yourfirstname yourlastname
To unsubscribe: listserv at listserv.tempe.gov
and in body: signoff HEATH
Archives for HEATH: http://www.tempe.gov/archives
--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --
More information about the Heath
mailing list