DX-60 function switch.

[John A. Diefenbach]

I agree. I purchased a "Seneca" in '59. Over time the 2-pole, 5-pos.
bakelite (phenolic?) rotary switch began to arc. No amount of cleaning could
resolve this so I changed the switch to a ceramic type. All troubles went
away.
I sold the AM stuff back in the 60s because 'there would be no more AM'!
I now have a Heathkit "Seneca" (purchased 3 years ago) that already had a
similarly defective function switch. I found a ceramic switch at Surplus
Sales of Nebraska.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerald C. Lemay" <w1id at FCGNETWORKS.NET>
To: <HEATH at LISTSERV.TEMPE.GOV>
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 1:38 PM
Subject: DX-60 function switch.


> Ask any number of people what the most common failure mode is with those
> rigs and the answer would likely be: the mode switch. For some reason,
> Heathkit went ahead and switched HV B+ with a puny little switch with
small
> contacts. Result: contact failure over time. The switch of course is non-
> obtainium. A good solution is to use a relay (AC) to do the switching. You
> can always replace a relay if need be but you can't replace the switch.
> Another one is to repair the switch by replacing the offending contacts
> with others taken from a good switch. Small screws and nuts are available
> to do that. I wondered what would happen if I simply jumpered the
> connection. The short answer is: nothing catastrophic! All I noticed is
the
> final stage draws about 8 mils during key up. Under those conditions the
> final is dissipating 5.6 watts. No other "adverse" effects were noted
> except for the modulator tube which was drawing 1 mil. I'm tempted to just
> bypass the contacts. I'm not interested in replacing the switch. If I
> really feel the need, I'll replace the contacts.
>
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