HW101 dial drive rebuild instructions

[CyberGeezer]

----- Original Message -----
> >From: john <johnmb at NC.RR.COM>
> >Reply-To: john <johnmb at NC.RR.COM>
> >To: HEATH at LISTSERV.TEMPE.GOV
> >Subject: HW101 dial drive rebuild instructions
> >Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 09:14:03 -0400

Hi John!

I finally got past some other problems in my HW-101 and got around to the
dial drive.

I must have done something wrong, but I cannot figure what it is.

(NOTE--  I only worked on the front-panel Jackson drive.  I didn't do the
one in the VFO, for two reasons--
    1.  After I removed the front-panel drive, the VFO shaft turned quite
smoothly, without any of the sticking and binding I'd been experiencing.
    2.  The VFO would be a bear to remove--  two of the nuts that hold it
are under the wiring harness, which is not about to move out of the way.)

I disassembled the front Jackson drive, and sure enough, the grease in there
was the constistency of dried-out peanut butter and was very sticky.

I soaked the parts in alcohol, cleaned off the old grease, and repacked with
white silicone grease (because that's the kind of non-petroleum grease that
I had on hand).

GROAN--  I can't seem to reassemble the drive the way it was--  the brass
rotor that has the holes in it for the four balls (which are inside the
housing) has a flat disk toward the front of it that I seem to recall was
flat against front of the housing before I disassembled.  Now it's about a
quarter-inch away from the front of the housing, and I can't see what I've
done wrong.  That rotor won't go any further back because the balls are
against the removable pieces on the back of the housing.

I put the rig back together with the Jackson drive in this condition, and
the knob now turns very smoothly, but doesn't turn the dial unless I press
in HARD on the knob.

Any ideas?

73 de W2GERry


> >
>Here's my tips for rebuilding the dial drives on a 101. I did this on mine
>and it removed all slipping and "grittyness".
>
>Will be happy to answer any questions if anyone needs them.
>73
>John wb5oau
> >
> >
> >Remove vfo (easier than it sounds!!)
> >By: Remove main knob
> >         remove 2 screws holding Jackson drive #1 to panel
> >         loosen 2 setscrews on shaft of same behind panel. Remove drive
1.
> >         Unsolder 3 connections on back of  VFO and unplug 1 RCA plug
> >         remove 4 nuts on spade lugs holding vfo to chassis
> >         Remove VFO
> >
> >         Taking the inner Jackson drive off (there's 2 in series to get
the
> >         28:1 reduction) is straightforward...putting it back in takes a
> >little
> >         gymnastics but isnt too bad.
> >
> >         The drives are held together with 4 little bent over tabs.
> >Straighten
> >         with dikes and pliers (bend as LITTLE as
possible!!)...disassemble
> >and
> >clean in kerosene...repack in lubriplate (after finding the 4 balls that
> >have fallen out) reassemble and you'll really note the difference in
> >smoothness...and lack of slip. The grease used in the old ones will
likely
> >be all dried up.
> >
> >         Doing it the second time I'd think about 2 hours from start to
> >finish
> >         should do it. The "spread spectrum" effect comes from poor
contact
> >         from the little spring clip on the rotor, to the frame. A heath
> >bulletin
> >         advises soldering wire to it, and bolting to frame of cap. This
is
> >easily
> >         done on the rear wiper....lube bearings on cap with thin oil
> >         to cut the peanut butter thickness grease that'll be in there!
> >
> >         It's easy to get the vfo back in if you saved the BEST PRODUCT
> >         heath ever invented...the little red nut starter!
> >
> >         Sure enjoy using my  101 again!  Penson's book says they sold
> >something
> >around 50,000 of these....more than any other ham       transceiver ever.
> >
> >         John wb5oau
> >
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