[Heath] Heath Digest, Vol 94, Issue 7

Sat Oct 20 16:53:25 EDT 2018

Hi Al,

Nothing succeeds like success:)

73,

Bill  KU8H

On 10/20/2018 04:31 PM, Al Skierkiewicz wrote:
> Guys,
> I have just finished restoring an AR-3.  It was a labor of love as I my
> first ham receiver AR-3.  I had purchased it used for $15 from George at the
> Radio TV Lab in Chicago.  I saw this one at the hamfest in Oak Creek, Wisc
> for $25 and just wanted to get it going.  My cap was not frozen but very
> stiff.  I just shot some Lubriplate white grease into the ball bearings that
> make up the reduction.  I waited for a day and just started moving the shaft
> until the grease got distributed.  Worked wonders.
> I had more problems with the fact that the kit wasn't fully correctly wired
> and that the silver mica caps in the i.f. transformers were all noisy.
> (Thunder syndrome)  If you tap on the cans and you hear tons of crackling
> and thunder, then you have the same problem.  I removed the mica wafers and
> replaced the caps with dipped silver micas.  I calculated the values from
> the area of the mica that was plated with silver.  The fact that there were
> wiring errors meant that the radio had never been aligned.  A RF signal
> generator is kind of necessary for alignment of this box.  Although I got it
> working, I also bought a Q multiplier that wouldn't work at all.  Turns out,
> that the i.f. was 50kHz low.  Once I got everything correctly tuned, the Q
> mult worked great as well.
> Al
> WB9UVJ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Heath [mailto:heath-bounces at puck.nether.net] On Behalf Of
> heath-request at puck.nether.net
> Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2018 7:24 AM
> To: heath at puck.nether.net
> Subject: Heath Digest, Vol 94, Issue 7
>
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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: AR-3 issues (Gordon Gwillim)
>    2. Re: AR-3 issues (Charles Milton)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 03:57:18 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Gordon Gwillim <ve5uj at yahoo.com>
> To: ChrisIwata via Heath <heath at puck.nether.net>,  "Kenneth G. Gordon"
> 	<kgordon2006 at frontier.com>
> Subject: Re: [Heath] AR-3 issues
> Message-ID: <480690440.499151.1540007838330 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>  Hi Ken.? I am not that familiar with the AR-3 but the integral reduction
> drive was part of many tuning caps on old broadcast and all wave receivers
> in the 30s to the 50s. Once rim drive and string drive dials came along the
> reduction drives began to dry up. I have had to soak items of that sort for
> maybe a month before the old grease "let go." On the farm we usually use
> petroleum solvent for the purpose. I am sure there are more effective
> solvents available.? Heat works well as long as the cap doesn't suffer from
> a direct flame heat source. Careful heat application and patience may do the
> job much more quickly. Most of those reduction drive caps are far from "worn
> out." Once re-lubed with modern grease, they will be good as new.
>
> Interesting comments on the "old receivers." I used a S-77A which was the
> transformerless version of the S-40B, for my first year on the air. No
> voltage regulation on the oscillators and no way to provide that amenity.? I
> did build a regulated 105 volt supply for all but the tube heaters which
> helped considerably but when I was able to acquire a BC-348, life got much
> better ....
> Keep us posted Ken and good luck, 73Gordon, VE5UJ.
>
>     On Friday, October 19, 2018, 6:51:41 p.m. CST, Kenneth G. Gordon
> <kgordon2006 at frontier.com> wrote:
>
>  THanks, Chris. Makes sense. I'll see if it is worth the effort. Maybe I'll
> just leave it 1:1
>
> Ken
>
> On 19 Oct 2018 at 14:43, ChrisIwata via Heath wrote:
>
>>
>> If you are hell-bent on getting your AR-3 working, you can buy a
>> reduction drive from Dan's Small Parts.? These are good quality
>> Jackson Bros NOS and can stand quite a bit of torque.? I've used them
>> on many rigs I've built.? They're? in the $15 category plus shipping.?
>> I used one on my SB-104 VFO.
>>
>> This requires surgery.? You'll accept that your AR-3 variable cap is
>> 1:1.? You'll cut the shaft, add the reduction drive, then connect the
>> dial-cord wheel and knob on the other end.? You'll have to also figure
>> out how to mount the reduction drive so it is stable.
>>
>> ? Lotsa work, but you'll be back in? business
>>
>> Chris, KL7DM
>>
>> On 10/19/2018 11:42 AM, Fred wrote:
>>> I had this problem with an AR-2. At first I thought it was supposed to
> be 1:1. I removed the tuning cap and soaked the shaft with Liquid Wrench. It
> took a lot of working it free by hand but it works smoothly now. It?s a
> planetary drive with three small ball bearings. There?s no way I? see? to?
> disassemble it without destroying it.
>>> Unfortunately, I need the vernier dial for my AR-3 also. I have the
> brass shaft bushing but the plastic disc is cracked in half. I hope to try
> and fashion one.
>>>
>>> Fred
>>> WA3KIO
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>> On Oct 19, 2018, at 1:05 PM, Kenneth G. Gordon
> <kgordon2006 at frontier.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I want to restore at least one of the two AR-3s I have here since
>>>> my very first Novice receiver in 1956 was an AR-3. I couldn't afford a
> cabinet for it.
>>>>
>>>> Previous to that, I had worked all summer for my step-father's
>>>> construction company to buy a DX-35, which I used subsequently for many
> years.
>>>>
>>>> The BFO in my first AR-3 never worked and due, at least partially,
>>>> to that problem, I made exactly two contacts my entire Novice year, one
> of which was a local about 2 miles away.
>>>>
>>>> I subsequently studied hard and passed my Conditional Class license
>>>> test the next year, 1957, at which time a sub-contractor for my
>>>> step-father's general construction company gave me a Hallicrafters
>>>> S-41G which he had found abandoned in the basement of the home he had
> recently bought. At least the BFO in that thing worked.
>>>>
>>>> I made many contacts with that almost-useless piece of junk
>>>> receiver. Subsequent to that, my Mother took pity on me and bought a
> BC-348 for me. Then I was in heaven.
>>>>
>>>> Now, I want to restore an AR-3 mainly to see just how bad it really
>>>> was/is when it is working at "peak efficiency".
>>>>
>>>> The main problem I am having with BOTH of these two AR-3s is that
>>>> although the main-tuning capacitor in the AR-3 normally has a
>>>> built-in 5:1 vernier, BOTH of mine are frozen solid and are now a
> simple 1:1 dial.
>>>>
>>>> I propose to remove the capacitors and soak them in a jar filled to
>>>> the brim with PB-Blaster in hopes that the stuff will soak down
>>>> into the mechanism and loosen at least one of them up.
>>>>
>>>> But, does anyone here have anything which might work better to do this?
>>>>
>>>> Ken W7EKB
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Heath mailing list
>>>> Heath at puck.nether.net
>>>> https://puck.nether.net/mailman/listinfo/heath
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Heath mailing list
>>> Heath at puck.nether.net
>>> https://puck.nether.net/mailman/listinfo/heath
>>
>>
>> ---
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>>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 08:14:13 -0400
> From: Charles Milton <cemilton at aol.com>
> To: Gordon Gwillim <ve5uj at yahoo.com>
> Cc: ChrisIwata via Heath <heath at puck.nether.net>, "Kenneth G. Gordon"
> 	<kgordon2006 at frontier.com>
> Subject: Re: [Heath] AR-3 issues
> Message-ID: <BE1BF0D5-CAEE-417E-ADA2-5B17E482D60C at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Ken (and others)....
>
> Try KROIL to loosen the vernier drive on the Heath receiver.  Very good
> stuff.  I found it at the local NAPA store.
>
> 73
> Chuck
> W4MIL
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Oct 19, 2018, at 11:57 PM, Gordon Gwillim via Heath
> <heath at puck.nether.net> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Ken.  I am not that familiar with the AR-3 but the integral reduction
> drive was part of many tuning caps on old broadcast and all wave receivers
> in the 30s to the 50s. Once rim drive and string drive dials came along the
> reduction drives began to dry up. I have had to soak items of that sort for
> maybe a month before the old grease "let go." On the farm we usually use
> petroleum solvent for the purpose. I am sure there are more effective
> solvents available.  Heat works well as long as the cap doesn't suffer from
> a direct flame heat source. Careful heat application and patience may do the
> job much more quickly. Most of those reduction drive caps are far from "worn
> out." Once re-lubed with modern grease, they will be good as new.
>>
>> Interesting comments on the "old receivers." I used a S-77A which was the
> transformerless version of the S-40B, for my first year on the air. No
> voltage regulation on the oscillators and no way to provide that amenity.  I
> did build a regulated 105 volt supply for all but the tube heaters which
> helped considerably but when I was able to acquire a BC-348, life got much
> better ....
>> Keep us posted Ken and good luck, 73
>> Gordon, VE5UJ.
>>
>> On Friday, October 19, 2018, 6:51:41 p.m. CST, Kenneth G. Gordon
> <kgordon2006 at frontier.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> THanks, Chris. Makes sense. I'll see if it is worth the effort. Maybe
>> I'll just leave it 1:1
>>
>> Ken
>>
>> On 19 Oct 2018 at 14:43, ChrisIwata via Heath wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> If you are hell-bent on getting your AR-3 working, you can buy a
>>> reduction drive from Dan's Small Parts.  These are good quality
>>> Jackson Bros NOS and can stand quite a bit of torque.  I've used
>>> them on many rigs I've built.  They're  in the $15 category plus
>>> shipping.  I used one on my SB-104 VFO.
>>>
>>> This requires surgery.  You'll accept that your AR-3 variable cap is
>>> 1:1.  You'll cut the shaft, add the reduction drive, then connect
>>> the dial-cord wheel and knob on the other end.  You'll have to also
>>> figure out how to mount the reduction drive so it is stable.
>>>
>>>  Lotsa work, but you'll be back in  business
>>>
>>> Chris, KL7DM
>>>
>>> On 10/19/2018 11:42 AM, Fred wrote:
>>>> I had this problem with an AR-2. At first I thought it was supposed to
> be 1:1. I removed the tuning cap and soaked the shaft with Liquid Wrench. It
> took a lot of working it free by hand but it works smoothly now. It?s a
> planetary drive with three small ball bearings. There?s no way I  see  to
> disassemble it without destroying it.
>>>> Unfortunately, I need the vernier dial for my AR-3 also. I have the
> brass shaft bushing but the plastic disc is cracked in half. I hope to try
> and fashion one.
>>>>
>>>> Fred
>>>> WA3KIO
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>>> On Oct 19, 2018, at 1:05 PM, Kenneth G. Gordon
> <kgordon2006 at frontier.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I want to restore at least one of the two AR-3s I have here since
>>>>> my very first Novice receiver in 1956 was an AR-3. I couldn't afford
> a cabinet for it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Previous to that, I had worked all summer for my step-father's
>>>>> construction company to buy a DX-35, which I used subsequently for
> many years.
>>>>>
>>>>> The BFO in my first AR-3 never worked and due, at least
>>>>> partially, to that problem, I made exactly two contacts my entire
> Novice year, one of which was a local about 2 miles away.
>>>>>
>>>>> I subsequently studied hard and passed my Conditional Class
>>>>> license test the next year, 1957, at which time a sub-contractor
>>>>> for my step-father's general construction company gave me a
>>>>> Hallicrafters S-41G which he had found abandoned in the basement of
> the home he had recently bought. At least the BFO in that thing worked.
>>>>>
>>>>> I made many contacts with that almost-useless piece of junk
>>>>> receiver. Subsequent to that, my Mother took pity on me and bought a
> BC-348 for me. Then I was in heaven.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now, I want to restore an AR-3 mainly to see just how bad it
>>>>> really was/is when it is working at "peak efficiency".
>>>>>
>>>>> The main problem I am having with BOTH of these two AR-3s is that
>>>>> although the main-tuning capacitor in the AR-3 normally has a
>>>>> built-in 5:1 vernier, BOTH of mine are frozen solid and are now a
> simple 1:1 dial.
>>>>>
>>>>> I propose to remove the capacitors and soak them in a jar filled
>>>>> to the brim with PB-Blaster in hopes that the stuff will soak
>>>>> down into the mechanism and loosen at least one of them up.
>>>>>
>>>>> But, does anyone here have anything which might work better to do
> this?
>>>>>
>>>>> Ken W7EKB
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Heath mailing list
>>>>> Heath at puck.nether.net
>>>>> https://puck.nether.net/mailman/listinfo/heath
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Heath mailing list
>>>> Heath at puck.nether.net
>>>> https://puck.nether.net/mailman/listinfo/heath
>>>
>>>
>>> ---
>>> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
>>> http://www.avg.com
>>
>>>
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>>
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