<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt"><div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; "><span>One thing: The accuracy of the LMO at the 1 kHz calibration marks between the 100 kHz marks has nothing to do with the heterodyne oscillator crystals. The position of the fiducial when calibrating to the 100 kHz oscillator is affected by the heterodyne oscillator crystals. But, after the fiducial is set, the accuracy is then only dependent on the actual tracking of the LMO. By tracking, I mean how close the actual frequency is to the 1 kHz markings on the rotary dial.</span></div><div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; "><span><br></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; "><span>It has been my experience that the tube-type LMOs, which were all made by TRW, and the
solid-state LMOs made by TRW, generally are very accurate and well within 1 kHz of the dial reading. Unfortunately, many of the solid-state LMOs which were manufactured by companies other than TRW vary all over the place between the 100 kHz marks. Generally, they are "right on" at the 100 kHz points but, unfortunately, the manufacturer did not put forth the effort, which was undertaken by TRW, to assure that the calibration between the 100 kHz points was accurate.</span></div><div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; "><span><br></span></div><div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; "><span>There are at least 2 different interior designs of the TRW tube-type LMOs and each has to be handled differently when adding the braid to ground the rotor of the main tuning variable capacitor. This is due to the size of the capacitor and the size of the gears. Various people have
their "own" method of installing this braid. Having "rebuilt" a number of the various types of the tube-type LMOs, I have pretty much "standardized" on the method for each. Those methods, and photos of the "finished product", are in the article at</span></div><div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; "><span><br></span></div><div>http://k9sth.com/uploads/LMO_rebuild-1.pdf<br></div><div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; "> </div><div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; ">Glen, K9STH<br><br></div><div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; ">Website: http://k9sth.com<br> <div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; "> <div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; "> <div dir="ltr"> <font size="2" face="Arial"> <hr size="1"> <b><span
style="font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> Kenneth G. Gordon <kgordon2006@frontier.com><br></font></div><br>Well, my SB-102's LMO (not VFO) is absolutely excellent with regard to <br>tracking and stability. Drift is only a few Hertz within only a few minutes after <br>being turned on. However, there IS a common "problem" with Heathkit <br>LMOs, even those made by TRW. See below.<br><br>The "common problem" I refer to above is that the connections between the <br>LMO's tuning capacitor's various bits has become intermittant within a very <br>few years of their original manufacture, and this leads to instability of the <br>"jumping" variety at certain places in the tuning range.<br><br>Bob G3OOU has mentioned this here, and has provided his solution to that <br>problem. I have tried using very small quantities of DeOxit-5 applied with a <br>toothpick to those areas which I thought could help, but it only helps over a <br>short period of time before
it goes back to being jumpy.<br><br>As far as I am concerned, the best method is to solder a piece of braid to the <br>rotor and to some place on the stator in such a way that the turning of the <br>rotor will not "wind up" the braid and keep the rotor from turning to its limits.<br><br>Doing this requires removal and dismantling of the LMO. SOME LMOs are <br>held together with screws. Others are spot-welded. Those which are spot-<br>welded (my SB-102 has one of those) can be opened by very carefully <br>drilling directly through the spot-weld with an appropriate sized drill, then you <br>can use the hole drilled to install hefty sheet-metal or self-tapping screws to <br>hold it back together after you have operated on the LMO.<br><br>Only ONE SIDE of the LMO case must be removed. Be sure of which one <br>you remove. The correct one will have no other screw-head protruding <br>through it. The side you do NOT want to remove has the tuning cap and
<br>other components fastened to it.<br><br>DO NOT touch anything else inside the LMO.<br><br>Lastly, it has been my experience that TRACKING has far LESS to do with <br>the LMO and MUCH more to do with the heterodyne oscillator crystals which <br>have drifted out of spec, sometimes by quite a lot.<br><br>Heathkit used different manufacturer's crystals, some of which were pure <br>crap, others of which were excellent.<br><br>Once you get all the heterodyne oscillator crystals on their correct <br>frequencies, tracking, especially from band to band, will be excellent.<br><br>Also, although most people, even Heathkit people, are not aware of this, the <br>SB/HW transceivers can be easily modified to cover 500 KHz segments <br>above and below most ham-bands....except 40 meters...by using an external <br>heterodyne oscillator and the appropriate crystal.<br><br>This works on exactly the same principle as that used in the Collins KWM-2A <br>to cover many
complete bands outside the ham bands.<br><br>I used my modified SB-100, (I called it my SB-101.5) as my exciter to drive <br>my modified BC-610 linear amp (2.6 KW output) to do 'phone patching into <br>Vietnam during that war for AFMARS in the 500 KHz segment covering 14.5 <br>to 15.0 MHz.<br><br>Using this external heterodyne oscillator and the appropriate crystal, I could <br>cover from 4.0 to 4.5 MHz on 80, 13.5 to 14.0 in addition to 14.5 to 15.0 Mhz <br>on 20, and likewise, 500 KHz above and below 15 meters. I never did try this <br>on 10 meters, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work there too.<br><br>40 meters with the SB/HW transceivers is a special case, as due to the way <br>Heathkit connected the DRIVER grid and plate coils in series, the tuned <br>circuits of the DRIVER stages on 40 meters just BARELY cover the 300 KHz <br>range of 40 meters.<br><br>The final amp plate tank circuit is capable of covering almost the entire range <br>from
3.5 MHz through 30 MHz, including the WARC bands.<br><br>As with nearly all Heathkit transmitters I have ever been familiar with, it has <br>trouble loading properly at the LOW end of 80 meters.<br><br> </div> </div> </div></div></body></html>