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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>John and team,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I have an HW-16 and I just love the thing. Mine,
like all of my old gear, is bone stock; personal preference for sure, and it
performs fine. On occasion if a strong signal comes through, I just back down
the RF gain control - that's why its there. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>The stuck slug is likely because its broken and the
tiny sharp edge along the break line is digging into the coil form. I've had
very good luck carefully drilling them out - small size bit and slowly work up.
You get to a point where the slug will disintegrate and all you need do is clean
out the remains and put in a new slug. You just need to be very careful and
patient. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>The CW side tone note is ugly as per previous posts
and I tried different resistor combinations to change the tone but ended up
unsoldering the neon bulb and relying on the tone from my Heath HD 1410 keyer.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>As for power out I usually get about 40 to 50 watts
on 80 and 40 and about 30 on 15. That's pretty consistent with the many HW-16's
I have had over the years. Plenty of power to work DX and locals. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I love the true QSK operation and find the receiver
quite satisfactory...Obviously it would be nice to have some selectable
bandwidths but then again the radio was designed to be relative cheap and easy
to use. A novice rig. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I fully respect anyone's desire to make mods and
changes but I find the radio works great as built/designed and its short comings
due to its 50 year old design and market price point objectives, are part of the
fun! I really don't see a need for any mods to allegedly increase the
receivers gain. I'm always concerned about any downstream effects such mods
could introduce. In other words, is the cure worse than any perceived disease
the radio may have? Last year I decide to work stations strictly using the HW-16
and an all band wire dipole just like I did as a kid back in the day. Tons of
fun and a lot of DX and local contacts. Filled up many log sheets using the
little beast. Never had any complaints from any of the stations I worked.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Enjoy!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Mark VE3LU/VE3DJU</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=wb4lnm@aol.com href="mailto:wb4lnm@aol.com">John Klingelhoeffer</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=heath@puck.nether.net
href="mailto:heath@puck.nether.net">heath@puck.nether.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, March 11, 2014 1:13
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Heath] HW-16 update and
additional question (11 MAR 14)</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT color=black size=5
face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks to all who responded and gave
comments and suggestions to the questions regarding the HW-16 refurbishment.
Most were very helpful. I still have a locked slug in the 15M het
oscillator coil form in the receiver that I may have to break out and retune
with an external capacitor. Silicone spray was not the answer.
That 15M LO level is a lot lower than 40 and 80 M. On the
transmitter side, I seem to get 50-60 watts out on all three bands so I'm
happy, happy, happy about that.
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>The comments I have seen previously on the reflector about carbon
composition resistors increasing in value on this old equipment is very
important to heed. So far, of those removed or tested, all have been
15-20% high in value. Some also had very little 'headroom' in their
dissipation. The order to the electronics parts place is already in
process. </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Okay, so I won't say this is the last problem I'll post, but it is so far
a vexing one. At even moderate audio levels, a strong station will cause
something - I think the audio output tube - to regenerate the received tone.
It sounds like the tube is oscillating in synchronization with the
incoming CW and producing a strong keyed tone - sort of like a locked
oscillator. It ends up being a LOT louder than the signal level.
</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>The troubleshooting instructions in the manual talk about the output
transformer plate (blue) lead being too close to the PCB (and hence the grids
of the audio amp tube) and causing 'howling'. I would not characterize
this as howling (unrestrained audio feedback) - the oscillation only happens
when the strong CW signal is there and ceases between dits and dahs.
It's a keyed audio oscillation. </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Just in case, I moved the blue transformer lead all the way to the edge
of the chassis per the troubleshooting hint, and I also shielded it with the
braid from of a piece of RG-59 cable. However, no joy. Still as
bad as ever. Also tried to replace the audio tube cathode electrolytic
capacitor since I wasn't sure I'd changed that recently. No change.
I performed the tube socket voltage tests and all were within a couple
of percent. </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Until this gets fixed, I'm not going to attempt any of the increased gain
mods for the IF and RF amps as they would be counterproductive. But, it
needs to be fixed else the radio will be pretty useless. Anyone seen
this before and found a fix for it? I don't remember this sort of thing
happening on the one I assembled and used back in 1968-1970. </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Should I just take a piece of insulated solid #16 buss wire, bring it up
absolutely vertically from the PCB plate connection, and then route it over to
the vicinity of the transformer before connecting to the blue transformer wire
on a terminal strip under the transformer mounting screw? I can't think
of any way of getting it any more quickly away from the PCB and putting space
between it an the tube grids. I could use Teflon coaxial cable to make
this a shielded run as well. Other thoughts?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Thanks and 73 John... WB4LNM</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV></FONT>
<P>
<HR>
<P></P>_______________________________________________<BR>Heath mailing
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