<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:12pt"><div class="" style=""><span class="" style="">There is an article on eliminating the warble in the Heath LMOs which involves the adding of a piece of braid, with photographs, at:</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 16px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;" class=""><span class="" style=""><br class="" style=""></span></div><div style="background-color: transparent;" class=""><span class="" style=""><a href="http://k9sth.com/uploads/LMO_rebuild-1.pdf" class="" style="">http://k9sth.com/uploads/LMO_rebuild-1.pdf</a><br class="" style=""></span></div><div class="" style=""></div><div class="" style=""> </div><div class="" style="">Glen, K9STH</div><div class=""
style=""><br class="" style=""><br class="" style=""></div><div class="" style="">Website: http://k9sth.com</div> <div class="qtdSeparateBR"><br><br></div><div class="yahoo_quoted" style="display: block;"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" class=""> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" class=""> <div dir="ltr" class="" style=""> <font size="2" face="Arial" class="" style=""> On Monday, July 28, 2014 9:47 AM, Mark V Johnson <mvjohn@sympatico.ca> wrote:<br class="" style=""> </font> </div> <br class="" style=""><br class="" style=""> <div class="" style="">I use a judicious amount of WD-40 to soften and clean up old grease. Like<br class="" style="">any cleaner, don't use an excessive amount. For new lube, I just put a drop<br class="" style="">of light oil on the main dial shaft and
a tiny bit on the main bearing on<br class="" style="">the LMO; assuming you have the LMO out of the radio and on the bench to<br class="" style="">service it. <br class="" style=""><br class="" style="">When I read your first post I would have thought the problem was not<br class="" style="">sticking end to end lock tabs, or washers, but a misaligned dial. I'd<br class="" style="">recommend going to the manual and adjust the dial per the calibration and<br class="" style="">alignment steps as outlined. <br class="" style=""><br class="" style="">I've seldom had problems with the slip disc's. Any problems usually have to<br class="" style="">do with heavy drag on the LMO due to age and dirt or excessive use of oil<br class="" style="">over the years. I found that the installation and adjustment procedures<br class="" style="">outlined in the manual are good and make sense. Just need to read and<br class="" style="">carefully follow the steps. <br
class="" style=""><br class="" style="">If you have the LMO out of the radio and want to fix any chance of<br class="" style="">intermittent function due to the variable capacitor contact wipers being<br class="" style="">dirty or worn, I'd recommend a fix I've used on all my Heath gear and that<br class="" style="">is soldering a small piece of braided wire directly to the variable cap<br class="" style="">rotor and the grounded frame. It's easier with the tube LMO's but certainly<br class="" style="">doable on the SB-102 solid state units. Worth the effort. <br class="" style=""><br class="" style="">Mark Johnson VE3LU/VE3DJU<br class="" style=""><br class="" style=""> <br class="" style=""><br class="" style="">-----Original Message-----<br class="" style="">From: Heath [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:heath-bounces@puck.nether.net" href="mailto:heath-bounces@puck.nether.net" class="" style="">heath-bounces@puck.nether.net</a>] On Behalf Of Robert Myers<br
class="" style="">Sent: July-27-14 7:13 PM<br class="" style="">To: <a ymailto="mailto:heathkit@yahoogroups.com" href="mailto:heathkit@yahoogroups.com" class="" style="">heathkit@yahoogroups.com</a>; <a ymailto="mailto:heathkit@mailman.qth.net" href="mailto:heathkit@mailman.qth.net" class="" style="">heathkit@mailman.qth.net</a>;<br class="" style=""><a ymailto="mailto:heath@puck.nether.net" href="mailto:heath@puck.nether.net" class="" style="">heath@puck.nether.net</a><br class="" style="">Subject: [Heath] Lubing / Unsticking' the SB-401 LMO<br class="" style=""><br class="" style="">Thanks to everyone for advice on 'unsticking' the SB-401 LMO that locks at<br class="" style="">4-1/4 revolutions (as shown on the turns counter dial).<br class="" style=""><br class="" style="">A couple follow up questions: <br class="" style=""><br class="" style="">1. What grease cutters or cleaners do people recommend for removing the<br class="" style="">dried,
or thick, original lubricant. <br class="" style=""><br class="" style="">2. What do people recommend for lubricating the system after step 1 (and do<br class="" style="">you need to use conductive grease anywhere in there)?<br class="" style=""><br class="" style="">Thanks,<br class="" style="">--- Rob Myers, VE3JQL<br class="" style=""><br class="" style=""><br class="" style="">_______________________________________________<br class="" style="">Heath mailing list<br class="" style=""><a ymailto="mailto:Heath@puck.nether.net" href="mailto:Heath@puck.nether.net" class="" style="">Heath@puck.nether.net</a><br class="" style=""><a href="https://puck.nether.net/mailman/listinfo/heath" target="_blank" class="" style="">https://puck.nether.net/mailman/listinfo/heath</a><br class="" style=""><br class="" style="">_______________________________________________<br class="" style="">Heath mailing list<br class="" style=""><a
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