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<body class='hmmessage'><div dir='ltr'>Is the alcohol for you... or the LMO? HI HI<br><br><br><div>> From: rsmyers@rogers.com<br>> To: heathkit@yahoogroups.com; heath@puck.nether.net; heathkit@mailman.qth.net<br>> Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 23:05:49 -0400<br>> CC: rsmyers@rogers.com<br>> Subject: [Heathkit] Ready --> Lubing / Unsticking' the SB-401 LMO<br>> <br>> My SB-401 LMO ...<br>> <br>> On hand I have some Liquid Wrench, Mean Green, a jug of Anhydrous Isopropyl<br>> Alcohol (99.997% pure), Teflon grease (and Teflon needle dispense liquid),<br>> Caig Labs DeOxit 5% spray, and DeOxit 100% needle dispensed, Caig Labs 'Pro<br>> Gold' 5% spray, Isopropyl alcohol in a compressed cylinder, compressed air,<br>> Syringe of silver conductive grease (from MG Chemicals), Singer Sewing<br>> machine oil, and dental tools :)<br>> <br>> I am ready to take on my SB-401 LMO. Am I missing anything?<br>> <br>> Thanks for all the advice, everyone.<br>> <br>> Regards,<br>> -- Rob Myers, VE3JQL<br>> <br>> -----Original Message-----<br>> From: Heath [mailto:heath-bounces@puck.nether.net] On Behalf Of Kenneth G.<br>> Gordon<br>> Sent: July-28-14 7:25 PM<br>> To: Mark V Johnson<br>> Cc: Heath@puck.nether.net<br>> Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Heath] Lubing / Unsticking' the SB-401 LMO<br>> <br>> On 28 Jul 2014 at 10:47, Mark V Johnson wrote:<br>> <br>> <br>> > When I read your first post I would have thought the problem was not <br>> > sticking end to end lock tabs, or washers, but a misaligned dial.<br>> <br>> I have had to deal with the sticking lock tabs at least twice.<br>> <br>> > I've seldom had problems with the slip disc's.<br>> <br>> As I said, I have had problems with those things at least twice: both times,<br>> cleaning the old lube out of them, and relubing with something better fixed<br>> the problem<br>> <br>> > If you have the LMO out of the radio and want to fix any chance of <br>> > intermittent function due to the variable capacitor contact wipers <br>> > being dirty or worn, I'd recommend a fix I've used on all my Heath <br>> > gear and that is soldering a small piece of braided wire directly to <br>> > the variable cap rotor and the grounded frame.<br>> <br>> I have found this to be absolutely necessary this many years after the LMOs<br>> were made. I highly recommend it. <br>> <br>> > It's easier with the tube LMO's but certainly doable on the SB-102 <br>> > solid state units. Worth the effort.<br>> <br>> Yes. WELL worth the effort.<br>> <br>> Ken W7EKB<br>> _______________________________________________<br>> Heath mailing list<br>> Heath@puck.nether.net<br>> https://puck.nether.net/mailman/listinfo/heath<br>> <br>> ______________________________________________________________<br>> Heathkit mailing list<br>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/heathkit<br>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm<br>> Post: mailto:Heathkit@mailman.qth.net<br>> <br>> List Administrator: Duane Fischer, W8DBF<br>> ** For Assistance: dfischer at usol.com **<br>> <br>> <br>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net<br>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html<br></div> </div></body>
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