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Does this explain why all three of my SB-650's seem to work for
awhile then limp with just a few usable digits?<br>
Guy,<br>
WA6OQQ<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/4/2016 3:33 PM, John
Klingelhoeffer via Heath wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:15343fad8fd-572a-bf19@webprd-m59.mail.aol.com"
type="cite"><font color="black" size="5" face="Arial, Helvetica,
sans-serif">Heathkit used notoriously cheap IC sockets. I
suffered through that for years with my GR-2001 TV until I just
ended up soldering the IC's into the sockets. Problems
disappeared immediately.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I'm sure the intent of IC sockets was to keep from having
fried IC's by unsophisticated builders, but most sockets
pretty much died after the warranty was up. Or before. The
tin-plated steel leads lost their spring or oxide formed on
the leads and the sockets doomed many a kit. Look in just
about any commercially assembled electronics unit from the
1970's to the 1990's. No sockets. Sockets = intermittent
connections. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>For kits where I wanted to keep the sockets (such as the
audio amplifier IC on the HW-2036 that cratered several
times), I just replaced them with machine pin sockets. A
gold-flashed machine pin socket for a 16 pin DIP at Mouser
costs a dollar. More than worth the aggravation with
intermittent operation. At a hamfest, they are probably even
cheaper. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>In most cases, I just removed the sockets and soldered the
IC's directly to the board. Most folks with solder-wick can
remove a dead IC from the board without ruining the PCB. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Good luck with your clock. 73</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>John...</div>
<div>WB4LNM</div>
<div>"One of the hams from Heath"</div>
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