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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">Howard: I have had a lot of respect for the VF-1 since I first used one back in the 1960s.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">I'll fill you in on the details later.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">I am not sure where the "disrespect" for the VF-1 has come from. Probably from very poorly
built, or improperly connected ones. Properly built ones are at least as good as any other
good VFO of the same time period, like the Johnson 122. </span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">In fact, I prefer it to the later HG-10 for several reasons. For one thing, my VF-1 keys much
better, and drifts less than any HG-10 I have ever owned. I use my VF-1 with my HW-16
after having modified it for grid-block keying, which is a very simple process.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">Recently, Dave Ishmael W6VVL and I have been running a bunch of drift-tests on several
different VF-1s, and have learned a lot about them.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">As soon as I can, I'll send you what we learned, but in the meantime, I would recommend
your putting yours back to original.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">Dave had an FET version, which he had built, and it never did work very well. He recently
"converted" it back to original.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">You will have to "sort" any 6AU6s you own to choose one that keys best and drifts least.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">A couple of questions concerning yours: 1) does it have the early copper-plated chassis? 2)
can you tell if the tuning cap is bolted together, or soldered together?</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">The bolted caps were Cardwells, and were used in the early ones. The soldered caps are
Johnsons and aren't quite as good as the Cardwells, but were used in all the later ones.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">My present VF-1 is an excellent VFO, although it takes a while to warm up.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">On 40 meters, tested recently, it drifted less than 83 Hz. in an hour after it was warmed up.
On 160, it drifted 17 Hz in an hour of steady output.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">I don't consider that too bad. Remember the old advertising blurb about, "Less than 100
Hz/hour drift after warm-up!"? Our VF-1s meet that easily.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">BTW, of all those we have tested, warm-up drift is far better on 160 than on 40. We are
investigating why this is so.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">Also, the single biggest cause of chirp and drift on 40 and above with the VF-1, especially
when using it with the DX-35 or DX-40 or the earlier rigs, is due to RF from the tranmitter
getting into the VF-1's cabinet in some way. The cable between the transmitter and VFO
must be 100% shielded, and all incoming leads should be bypassed immediately where they
enter the cabinet. In addition, the contact between the panel and the rest of the box MUST
be nearly perfect.</span></font></div>
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<div align="left"><font face="Arial" size="2"><span style=" font-size:10pt">Ken W7EKB</span></font></div>
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