URM-25 any good??

[Cory Hine]

     Mine is on the bench, and I use it for all my radios.  Attenuator
     doesn't leak, I put a 6 DB pad in the line for isolation, and I don't
     hesitate to align things like KWM-2's or HF-380's with no problem.  If
     you want it to be stable, leave it on Friday night, when you know you
     are going to do alignments over the weekend.  After 12 hours or so, it
     just sits there.  And, it's rugged, inexpensive, you can get tubes and
     part for it from people like Fair Radio.....and no you can't have
     mine.  Suggest you keep it!

     Cory/N2AQS


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: URM-25 any good??
Author:  Nolan Lee <nlee at GS.VERIO.NET> at smtplink-dl
Date:    9/22/98 1:38 AM


At 07:22 PM 9/20/98 -0700, you wrote:

>I have a very nice URM-25, I think it is a H version although it could be a
>D version in an H case.

Never seen an "H" model, but chances are it would look like an "F" model
rather than a "D" model. Contact me email if you aren't sure what to
look for and I can email a jpeg image to you.

The cases are not interchangable between the "D" and the "F", they have
entirely different power supplies.

Typically, the "D" model uses a power supply bolted in the back of the
cabinet with two rows of four screws in a line on the bottom and the
back panel of the case that are visable from the out side. Some "D" models
use a detachable power cord, later ones didn't. The "D" model band switch
and tuning knob are located on a raised retangular area of the front
panel. The "F" model weights less and has a "flush" front panel of
a semi-round shape that the bandswitch and tuning knob are mounted
thru. In addition, the F model uses a round drum type shield with four
spring loaded latches inside the case. The "D" model is mostly angular
with zillions of screws holding all of the panels on.

In addition, the "D" uses two externally accessable dial lamps (#323)
that screw into the raised rectangular dial housing. The "F" uses internal
#47 bulbs.

>I am on a very limited ham budget (who isn't?) and
>was wondering if this was a good compromise sig gen??

Nothing wrong with them at all. If you really want to be a fanatic
for accuracy, use an external frequency counter with it.

>I have seen a lot of
>the HP8640s but those are way over my budget. Seen some 606s also but I got
>a good deal on this URM-25.

If it's an "F" model, I can make you a good deal on a manual copy, I
don't have any spare ones for the "D" though, sorry.

>So is it a keeper?? Anything to watch out for?? Who can calibrate these??

It's a lot easier to calibrate than you think, basically all you'll
need is a manual, a freq counter of an accurate receiver such as an
R390A, Icom R71A, etc and a VTVM. Not difficult at all.

If it's a "D" model, be very careful removing the instrument from the
case or you'll break the two feed thru's for the AC power. It uses
Z-50's if I remember right.

>Comments and suggestions most welcome.

Keep it, fix it, align it, use it.....   :-)

nolan


"No question that an admission of making false statements to
government officials and interfering with the FBI is an
impeachable offense."
-- Bill Clinton, ARKANSAS GAZETTE, August 8, 1974, page 7-A.

--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --
To subscribe: listserv at listserv.tempe.gov
and in body: subscribe BOATANCHORS yourfirstname yourlastname
To unsubscribe:  listserv at listserv.tempe.gov
and in body: signoff BOATANCHORS
Archives for BOATANCHORS: http://www.tempe.gov/archives
--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --

--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --
To subscribe: listserv at listserv.tempe.gov
and in body: subscribe BOATANCHORS yourfirstname yourlastname
To unsubscribe:  listserv at listserv.tempe.gov
and in body: signoff BOATANCHORS
Archives for BOATANCHORS: http://www.tempe.gov/archives
--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --