Chassis Cleaning Process

[R. L. Blaney]

Hi guys,
Maybe I'm just a "dumb hick" for sugesting  it, but at most broadcast
stations, just plain ole' soap & water is used.  With adequate care, of
course.  That's what we all did when I worked at 2 stations.  In fact, in
the 1960s, when I would get some crummy piece of surplus gear, like an ARC-5
receiver or transmitter, I would remove all coils, & shields, (all plug in
type in the ARC-5s) and just put them in the YL's dishwasher.  Cleaned that
aluminum & those variable caps like new.  At one time, Motorola
reconditioned their HTs by doing the same thing with the circuit boards.
They then replaced speakers, and repaired them for resale.  This is not for
every piece of electronic gear, and should be used with caution, but is a
viable option in some cases.
73 es gud hamming, de
Dick, WB8MHE
wb8mhe at bright.net

-----Original Message-----
From: Edward Zeranski <ejz at NOSC.MIL>
To: HEATH at LISTSERV.TEMPE.GOV <HEATH at LISTSERV.TEMPE.GOV>
Date: Friday, July 17, 1998 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: Chassis Cleaning Process


>At 10:36 AM 7/17/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>Hello,
>>    I am a new ham and need advise as to the safest process for cleaning
>>years of accumulated dust from the chassis of my HW-100 and HP-23a. I
>>thank you in advance.
>>
>>Jim La Grone
>>KB9TCP
>
>Jim,
>        I've cleaned up several sets and what has worked out for me is
this:
>
>1: Remove the chassis from the cabinet then pull the tubes and removable
>parts. Make notes as you go if you don't have a manual so you can get it
>all back.
>
>2: Brush away loose dirt etc. I sometimes use low pressure compressed air
>to blast away dirt, debris etc, but be careful around coils or fragile
parts.
>
>3: Use mild detergent or cleaner like Simple Green etc. to clean gummy
>stuff and clinging dirt from the chassis being sure not to get any wet
>chemicals or cleaner dials. In many cases dial lettering can be ruined with
>any 'wet' contact.
>
>4: Air dry or use a blow dryer to dry the chassis.
>
>5: Check chassis wiring and static socket resistances with an ohm meter
>before applying any pwr. I usually hold off on powering up a set until I
>get at least a schematic to check against what I have on the bench. In the
>years since the set was built it could have been modified or not built
>right in the first place. You don't want to fry a non replacable part!
>
>6: I must admit that making a set work and learning about it is my main
>interest. Total restoration would take many further steps. A lot of what I
>have is not physically "collector grade" but does works electronically and
>is clean  Actually I feel that my attempts at more than rudimentary touch
>up or case restoration will make the set worse off, paint and body work is
>not my strong suit.
>
>7: Good luck with your radios!
>
>
>
>Ed Zeranski  This is a private opinion or statement.
>home email:  ezeran at cris.com
>
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