Gr-64 and tube glue....A WARNING!!

[Brian Carling]

Forwarded warning:

This stuff will etch glass just as the "Doc" says it will, but if anyone
on
here tries this, be aware it's extremely dangerous stuff to say the
least.
Inhaling fumes generated by HF can be fatal, not to mention
extremely
bad
burns to flesh.  This stuff can eat to the bone in a matter of minutes.

Jerry, to answer your question about the mini tube, you could cut
the
tube
with it, but I think the string would give out before the glass does.
You
would probably be better off using a glass cutter, and a hell of a lot
safer!

Anyone interested in a horrible incident with this stuff can read this:
http://www.emergency.com/hzmtkill.htm

BE CAREFUL!!

B. Sherrod / w5ami

|| End of forwarded message

On 2 Jan 2001, at 19:44, Guy G. Giacopuzzi DDS wrote:

> My first SWL set was a GR-64.  In later years, when I was able to
> compare this set with others, I would put the 64' against any other four
> tuber made.  It' s certainly more sensitive.  The BFO tends to act like
> a regenerative control, and careful tweaking with AM signals can really
> bring in weak ones.  If you want to "soup it up", adding an RF stage, a
> la William Orr's, makes it comparable to a GR-54, maybe even a bit
> better.  Add both the GD-125 Q-multiplier and the RF amp, and you've got
> selectivity and all the sensitivity you'd ever need, especially on the
> infamous Band D.
>
> ...RE "tube glue"...
>
>     This advice is now professional...I'm a dentist by profession, and I
> have to bond to porcelain--glass--several times a week.  Get you hands
> on some hydrofluric acid.  It comes in 40%--you should cut it down to
> 20%.  BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL--THIS STUFF IS DANGEROUS...DO YOUR DILUTING
> AND MIXING OUTSIDE...IT CAN BURN YOU ...Use gloves...
> Practice on an old tube...I think three--four minutes with the 20%
> usually produces a decent etch...use a cotton pledget to apply the
> acid...then etch the area you want to bond/glue to--probably around the
> base of the tube. During the etch time, keep the area you are etching
> wet with the acid...if you let it dry, you spoil the bond.  Rinse with
> water about 30 seconds, dry, then use epoxy, crazy glue (cyanoacrylate)
> or a plastic cement--like a polystyrene model glue--whatever you know
> will bond to the base.  If you etch the glass first, most of these will
> work...the thinner the viscosity, the better the bond (I'd use
> cyanoacrylate).  If you don't etch the glass, you're simply filling the
> space between the glass and the base , and you can't ever grab the
> envelope expecting the base to go with it.  You can order hydrofluric
> acid at a phamacy.  It isn't expensive.  I bought a single bottle in
> 1983...about a liter...and I'm only half way thru it.  It has other
> uses, as there are many other places in this world where gluing
> something to glass is important...
>
> ggg
>
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