[Hallicrafters] Taming reluctant chassis ground points

[joel hallas]

Ken,

My approach has been to measure the resistance from such ground lugs to 
the chassis. If  my Simpson 260 shows anything greater than 0.00 ohms 
(I've seen a good fraction of an ohm on some), I look for a nearby 
screwed down lug, measure it and if good, put a bridge between. I 
routinely check each socket ring and make the connections if needed. If 
this works, it is less intrusive than drilling out rivets.

While you're there, also check the resistance from variable capacitor 
rotors to the capacitor frame. If those are greater than 0.00, usually 
some deoxit on the wipers with a few back and forths will clean them up.

GL and 73,
Joel Hallas, W1ZR



Ken Ketner wrote:

>Greetings folks: I wonder if anyone who is a fan of the old rigs has solved the problem of getting a solid connection for chassis ground points, especially those that are riveted to an aluminum chassis. If the chassis is steel, soldering the rivet/chassis joint is a good solution if enough heat can be brought to bear. Usually just needs a reasonably strong solder gun. And screw connections can be tightened/cleaned.
>
>But riveted joints on aluminum can be real baaad dudes. Is there a technique, magical juice or compound, hex potion, or love spell that anyone knows for sweetening up those dang wannabe diodes (brass, solder, aluminum — add a little lemon juice and you got a voltiac cell!)? I’m aware of drilling out the rivet and bolting as a technique, but that could get teed-jus.
>
>73
>
>Ken Ketner
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