[Heath] Ready --> Lubing / Unsticking' the SB-401 LMO
Robert Myers
rsmyers at rogers.com
Mon Aug 4 23:05:49 EDT 2014
My SB-401 LMO ...
On hand I have some Liquid Wrench, Mean Green, a jug of Anhydrous Isopropyl
Alcohol (99.997% pure), Teflon grease (and Teflon needle dispense liquid),
Caig Labs DeOxit 5% spray, and DeOxit 100% needle dispensed, Caig Labs 'Pro
Gold' 5% spray, Isopropyl alcohol in a compressed cylinder, compressed air,
Syringe of silver conductive grease (from MG Chemicals), Singer Sewing
machine oil, and dental tools :)
I am ready to take on my SB-401 LMO. Am I missing anything?
Thanks for all the advice, everyone.
Regards,
-- Rob Myers, VE3JQL
-----Original Message-----
From: Heath [mailto:heath-bounces at puck.nether.net] On Behalf Of Kenneth G.
Gordon
Sent: July-28-14 7:25 PM
To: Mark V Johnson
Cc: Heath at puck.nether.net
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Heath] Lubing / Unsticking' the SB-401 LMO
On 28 Jul 2014 at 10:47, Mark V Johnson wrote:
> When I read your first post I would have thought the problem was not
> sticking end to end lock tabs, or washers, but a misaligned dial.
I have had to deal with the sticking lock tabs at least twice.
> I've seldom had problems with the slip disc's.
As I said, I have had problems with those things at least twice: both times,
cleaning the old lube out of them, and relubing with something better fixed
the problem
> If you have the LMO out of the radio and want to fix any chance of
> intermittent function due to the variable capacitor contact wipers
> being dirty or worn, I'd recommend a fix I've used on all my Heath
> gear and that is soldering a small piece of braided wire directly to
> the variable cap rotor and the grounded frame.
I have found this to be absolutely necessary this many years after the LMOs
were made. I highly recommend it.
> It's easier with the tube LMO's but certainly doable on the SB-102
> solid state units. Worth the effort.
Yes. WELL worth the effort.
Ken W7EKB
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