[Heath] Ready --> Lubing / Unsticking' the SB-401 LMO

Robert Myers rsmyers at rogers.com
Mon Aug 4 23:05:49 EDT 2014


My SB-401 LMO ...

On hand I have some Liquid Wrench, Mean Green, a jug of Anhydrous Isopropyl
Alcohol (99.997% pure), Teflon grease (and Teflon needle dispense liquid),
Caig Labs DeOxit 5% spray, and DeOxit 100% needle dispensed,  Caig Labs 'Pro
Gold' 5% spray,  Isopropyl alcohol in a compressed cylinder, compressed air,
Syringe of silver conductive grease (from MG Chemicals), Singer Sewing
machine oil, and dental tools :)

I am ready to take on my SB-401 LMO.  Am I missing anything?

Thanks for all the advice, everyone.

Regards,
-- Rob Myers, VE3JQL

-----Original Message-----
From: Heath [mailto:heath-bounces at puck.nether.net] On Behalf Of Kenneth G.
Gordon
Sent: July-28-14 7:25 PM
To: Mark V Johnson
Cc: Heath at puck.nether.net
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Heath] Lubing / Unsticking' the SB-401 LMO

On 28 Jul 2014 at 10:47, Mark V Johnson wrote:


> When I read your first post I would have thought the problem was not 
> sticking end to end lock tabs, or washers, but a misaligned dial.

I have had to deal with the sticking lock tabs at least twice.

> I've seldom had problems with the slip disc's.

As I said, I have had problems with those things at least twice: both times,
cleaning the old lube out of them, and relubing with something better fixed
the problem

> If you have the LMO out of the radio and want to fix any chance of 
> intermittent function due to the variable capacitor contact wipers 
> being dirty or worn, I'd recommend a fix I've used on all my Heath 
> gear and that is soldering a small piece of braided wire directly to 
> the variable cap rotor and the grounded frame.

I have found this to be absolutely necessary this many years after the LMOs
were made. I highly recommend it. 

> It's easier with the tube LMO's but certainly doable on the SB-102 
> solid state units. Worth the effort.

Yes. WELL worth the effort.

Ken W7EKB
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