[Heath] [Heathkit] Lubing / Unsticking' the SB-401 LMO

Glen Zook gzook at yahoo.com
Sun Jul 27 23:30:32 EDT 2014


As for adjusting the "pinch" drive, after one has done several, it does get easier.  However, as for tightening the "pinch" mechanism itself, that is definitely harder to accomplish.

I have found that soldering the end of the shaft, while clamping the two halves of the "pinch" mechanism, usually gets it tightened up for a couple more decades.  Of course, one has to confine the solder to just the immediate area near the shaft.
 
Glen, K9STH


Website:  http://k9sth.com


On Sunday, July 27, 2014 9:13 PM, RAY FRIESS <rayfrijr at msn.com> wrote:
 


My biggest gripe and grief with the SB line of dials is the dual copper disc pressure system Heath engineers
dreamed up.   You can almost always count on some day the discs either breaking from the shaft or loosening up
so the dial turning gets erratic or stops altogether.   The engineers had a great dial mechanism on the single band
units.  I don't know why they couldnt have designed the SB units using the same type of thing.
Disassembling and reassembling the drive units in the SB line has probably driven many a ham to drink, trying to
get the dial in between those two discs and getting the correct upward and downward pressure at the right location
and then tightening the nut without the shaft slipping out of place.   I have uttered many a scream, added new flavor
to many age old cuss words and probably even invented a few new ones while working on the SB drive mechanism.  HI HI


> From: rsmyers at rogers.com
> To: heathkit at yahoogroups.com; heathkit at mailman.qth.net; heath at puck.nether.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 19:12:58 -0400
> CC: rsmyers at rogers.com
> Subject: [Heathkit] Lubing / Unsticking' the SB-401 LMO
> 
> Thanks to everyone for advice on 'unsticking' the SB-401 LMO that locks at
> 4-1/4 revolutions (as shown on the turns counter dial).
> 
> A couple follow up questions:  
> 
> 1. What grease cutters or cleaners do people recommend for removing the
> dried, or thick, original lubricant. 
> 
> 2.  What do people recommend for lubricating the system after step 1 (and do
> you need to use conductive grease anywhere in there)?
> 
> Thanks,
> --- Rob Myers, VE3JQL
> 
> 
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