[Heath] Heath Digest, Vol 77, Issue 5
KA9EGW
ka9egw at ka9egw.com
Tue May 16 13:09:33 EDT 2017
I have a metric crapload of small panel mount variables...
Sent from my iPhone, still learning to use it
> On May 16, 2017, at 11:00, heath-request at puck.nether.net wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: HW-8 Issue (g3oou)
> 2. Re: HW-8 Issue (Mike Czuhajewski)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
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> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 15 May 2017 17:07:24 +0900
> From: g3oou <g3oou at aol.com>
> To: Ron Kramer <kd6edv at gmail.com>, Heathkit List
> <heath at puck.nether.net>
> Subject: Re: [Heath] HW-8 Issue
> Message-ID: <4h6ywrp14ejojqxesia0sajt.1494835644046 at email.android.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hi Ron
> Have you checked if a short circuit is happening somewhere in the preselector tuning range?
> 73
> Bob G3OOU
>
>
> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Ron Kramer <kd6edv at gmail.com>
> Date: 14/05/2017 22:38 (GMT+09:00)
> To: Heathkit List <heath at puck.nether.net>
> Subject: [Heath] HW-8 Issue
>
> When I adjust the receiver preselector to the left, it blows the fuse. I am using a 2 amp fuse.
>
> What is causing the issue and what size fuse should I be using?
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> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 16 May 2017 02:38:37 -0400
> From: "Mike Czuhajewski" <wa8mcq at verizon.net>
> To: "Ron Kramer" <kd6edv at gmail.com>, "Heathkit List"
> <heath at puck.nether.net>
> Subject: Re: [Heath] HW-8 Issue
> Message-ID: <92F77E45CEC64464BA8B769AA6691C25 at michael3ecf5c8>
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> reply-type=original
>
>> When I adjust the receiver preselector to the left, it blows the
>> fuse. I am using a 2 amp fuse.
>
>
> So use a bigger fuse :-)
>
> This is obviously a bad preselector variable capacitor, with one or
> more plates bent somewhere. As you rotate it, the rotor (ground) and
> stator (hot) touch each other, shorting power to ground.
>
> The stator of the rear section of the capacitor (C301B) is connected
> to the drain of RF amplifier Q1. Follow the path on the schematic up
> through the diodes, inductors and bandswitch sections and it ends up
> at the main power source. There is nothing to limit current except the
> low resistance of the coil and forward drop of the diode, so the short
> blows the fuse. A short on the other section (C301A, used on 80M only)
> would not do that since it has a 1000 ohm resistor in the path. It
> still wouldn't work right, of course, but it would not blow a fuse.
>
> Your options are repairing or replacing the capacitor. Repair may or
> may not turn out well, and replacement can be expensive. Finding a
> replacement can be a problem but you can always get one from Oren
> Elliott Products. Located in the northwest corner of Ohio, that is the
> company that made Heathkit air variable capacitors (although under a
> different name at the time), and they are still in business. They call
> themselves "the largest domestic manufacturer of air-dielectric
> variable capacitors" and have been making them since 1925. While they
> probably won't have one of these in stock (it's a decades-old design
> with very limited demand), they can certainly make more although it
> won't be cheap.
>
> The company URL is
>
> http://www.orenelliottproducts.com
>
> and you can find their catalog at
>
> http://www.orenelliottproducts.com.//Docs/Catalog.pdf
>
> To give you some idea of what it might cost, consider the HW-8 VFO
> cap, which is somewhat similar, and is listed on their web page at
>
> http://www.orenelliottproducts.com/oep-capacitors/n-50-group/26-152-ns-51-heath-replacement
>
> For one piece it's $51.00 (!). That drops to $21 each if you order 5
> or more. That makes sense, since the cost of setting up production and
> other overhead is the same no matter how many you order. Of course
> most people won't order 5 or more unless they are a dealer of some
> sort. I would expect pricing to be similar for the preselector cap.
>
> (The Heath number for the VFO cap is 26-152 and the preselector cap is
> 26-151.)
>
> You might get lucky and find an HW-8 being sold for parts, but make
> sure it has the capacitor in it. If you're careful you might be able
> to adjust the plates so they don't touch. It will be tricky and you
> might ruin the whole thing--one possible outcome is having the plates
> pop off the shaft, which I have seen happen. (People who have done
> that to the VFO cap have carefully pushed them back into place on the
> shaft and put on a bit of epoxy to help hold them in place and usually
> get away with it.)
>
> If you aren't trying to keep the rig in 100% original configuration
> and just want to keep it working, you could always replace it with
> another dual section cap which has approximately the same capacitance
> spread. It might look ugly and probably require drilling some new
> mounting holes, and definitely rule out it ever being a museum piece,
> but at least it would work. (I don't know the capacitance range and it
> doesn't appear to be listed in the manual, but if I get a chance later
> I'll measure it.)
>
> Wish I had some answers that are quick and easy and cheap and
> foolproof, but there aren't any that I know of that meet all 4
> requirements. Except maybe having someone donate a free HW-8 or
> capacitor :-)
>
>
>
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