1st QSO with restored Valiant

Al Parker anchor at EC.RR.COM
Wed Sep 26 11:30:16 EDT 2007

Sorry guys, my response re: chirp wasn't accepted by the list, too long:

"Your message cannot  be distributed to the BOATANCHORS list  because it 
the maximum message size of 150 lines. The size of your message was 174 

I'll shorten it a bit, maybe it'll go thru.  Start reading from the bottom.
Al, W8UT
New Bern, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Al Parker" <anchor at ec.rr.com>
To: "hudlerb1 at netzero.com" <hudlerb1 at NETZERO.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [BOATANCHORS-TEMPE] 1st QSO with restored Valiant

> Hi Bruce,
>    Have you replaced the dropping resistor in/at the VFO yet?  If not, you 
> oughta, it'll make it chirp, it goes high and the regulated voltage drops 
> way down & is un-reg..  I'll cc info to you, below, of an exchange I had 
> re: that, a while ago.  I've done it in a Valiant & a Ranger.
> 73,
> Al, W8UT
> New Bern, NC
> www.boatanchors.org
> www.hammarlund.info
> ------------------------------------
>> Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] Johnson Valiant II VFO
> Al your memory is pretty good.  I believe the resistor is an
> 18 K resistor and can be reached by removing the side of the
> VFO box.  It is the left side when you are facing the radio
> panel that will expose the resistor..
> You can just clip the resistor out leaving a bit of the lead
> wire in place then solder new insulated wire to the
> remaining pieces on the terminal board and tube socket.  You
> can then run new wires out of the hole in the chassis.  If
> you move that resistor out of the box so it can cool with
> more air moving about, you can use a 2 watt.  In my
> experience, you don't really need a 10 watt, but you can buy
> some carbon film 3 watt and it should be sufficient.  The
> real key is to get that resistor out of the closed box where
> heat does build up and destroy it.
> If everything is all right with the VFO, it should not
> chirp.  But I have heard many of them in past years that
> did.  I have never explored why they do, but I have heard
> them back when they were new radios.  Completely removing
> the VFO is a bit of a challenge and to do it, you will need
> to take the panel off.  Sometimes the caps in the divider
> can be bad, they should be C 12, 13 and C 14 and 15 but that
> may not be the source of chirp.  That could be something
> near the keying tube.  If the VFO is oscillating, I would
> not go to the trouble to remove it just to explore.  You
> might create more trouble than you have.
> There should be about 4 resistors associated with the keying
> tube, check their values against the book.  As I recall the
> one in series with the wiper of the pot is about 1 meg.  If
> it has gone high, then that could be part of the problem.
> The cathode of one section of the 12AU7 is attached to about
> 260 volts negative through a resistor of about 18K, be sure
> it is good.  Even a dirty contact on the mode switch or
> keying pot could be the culprit.
> Good luck Dave.
> Jim
> W5JO
>> Hi Dave et al,
>>    I don't see the Johnson list, so don't know what
>> responses have been
>> there.
>>    The Valiant/Ranger, etc., VFO's have a dropping
>> resistor in the line to
>> the VR tube which is inside the VFO box IIRC.  The
>> resisitor is abt 12k or
>> 15k, 2 watts, and goes high in value as it gets very hot.
>> Then the VFO
>> chirps.  I can't remember if the resistor is inside or
>> outside of the box,
>> but it should be mounted outside, and be a 10watter if
>> posible, at least 5w.
>> Some guys have moved the VR tube out of the box, but I
>> think just getting
>> the dropping resisstor out helps the drift.
>>    I suspect the 122 VFO is much the same.  I've been into
>> both the Ranger
>> & Valiant to make the resistor change, without removing
>> the VFO, but it's
>> tight, and tough to get into it.
>>    It should not chirp.  That dropping resistor usually
>> fixes the chirp.
>> 73,
>> Al, W8UT,
>> New Bern, NC

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